My journey along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way began with a scant idea knocking about in my head, a concept I wasn’t sure would develop into a story. I wondered though: what if I wrote about the fierce and formidable women who called this rugged coastline home? Would I find enough wild women of the Wild Atlantic Way to write about? I knew of one such woman from history books, but would more reveal themselves, or would I need to seek out a different angle? Fortunately, as if by the luck of the Irish, the spirited wild women I was seeking emerged at every turn, each, as you might imagine, with a wild story to share.
Why Seek Wild Women
Exploring history while traveling can make a trip much more meaningful, but in a place like Ireland, it’s practically required. Beyond the shops, pubs, and modern attractions, diving into Ireland’s past enriches its magical landscape even further. Every stop along the iconic Wild Atlantic Way is rich with tales that challenge the traditional narratives dominated by men and highlight the indispensable roles women have played throughout Irish history. These stories, often overshadowed in traditional accounts, are crucial to truly understanding the spirit and resilience of Ireland.
Forget the adage ‘behind every great man is a great woman.’ Here, women are not behind anyone but boldly out in front, trailblazers who have paved the way for others. Discovering the stories of the wild women along the Wild Atlantic Way was more than an educational pursuit; it was an empowering journey that reminded me to take up space and be a part of history, rather than merely an observer of it. And look at the inspiration I found!
The Mystical and Mythical
Warrior Queen Maeve
Queen Maeve of Connacht, a standout character from Irish mythology, is not just famed for her role in the epic Táin Bó Cúailnge (The Cattle Raid of Cooley) but also for her legendary savvy and strength. Renowned for her ambitions that rivalled the fiercest of kings, Maeve’s most intriguing myth involves a unique curse she allegedly placed on the men of Ulster—forcing them to endure the pains of childbirth. This power to flip the script on pain, particularly one so uniquely female, sparked a wistful envy in me. What? Like you wouldn’t appreciate the poetic justice of men experiencing the trials of childbirth, if only for a brief spell?
Maeve’s tale intertwines power and rebellion, making her a fitting symbol of female audacity. Myths are more than entertainment though, and this one invites us to reflect on themes of equality and justice, with a nod to those who dare to rewrite the rules. In recounting Maeve’s exploits we celebrate a spirit unbound by convention, a reminder of the fierce independence that has long defined the women of Ireland.
The Past That Helped Shape Future Generations
The Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley
I’m embarrassed to admit that initially the only reason I knew who Grace O’Malley was is because there is a pub in Ottawa named after her. I know, I know, for shame. Grace O’Malley, known as the Pirate Queen of Ireland, is a towering figure in Irish history, embodying the fierce independence and resilience of the Irish people. Born into a family of seafarers and traders, Grace became a powerful leader and pirate who commanded a fleet of ships and hundreds of men. Her life was marked by bold adventures on the high seas and relentless battles against English encroachment. Worth adding here, she did this well into her 60s, so I don’t wanna hear about your hard day at the office, m’kay?
One of the most fascinating chapters of Grace’s life to me though is her unlikely friendship with Queen Elizabeth I, the Virgin Queen. Despite their contrasting positions — Grace as a rebel Irish chieftain and Elizabeth as the ruler of England — they forged a friendship of sorts built on mutual respect and political acumen. Both of these women were rulers in a male-dominated world, and their strong connection underscores a powerful narrative of diplomacy and female leadership.
When traveling along the Wild Atlantic Way, you won’t want to miss Westport House, which stands on the site where one of Grace O’Malley’s castles once existed. The original structure has left its mark in the form of dungeons in the house’s basement, offering a tangible connection to her storied past. This mansion, built by Grace’s descendants, showcases Georgian architectural elegance with its coffered ceilings, cantilevered stairs, and Irish oak floors with ebony inlay. And of course you can feel Grace’s presence throughout.
While the name Grace O’Malley was once just a familiar pub in Ottawa for me, my next visit there will certainly include a toast — “Sláinte to the Pirate Queen!” — in honour of my newfound appreciation for this incredible woman.
Mary Chambers: A Legacy Unearthed in Wild Nephin National Park
In the remote landscapes of Wild Nephin National Park, amidst the restoration of ancient cottages, lies a story you won’t find in history books. It’s a tale that can only be fully appreciated by journeying to this rugged part of Ireland and experiencing the narrative firsthand. Here, in a bothy, I was introduced to Mary Chambers by her great-great-grandson, Michael Chambers, a guide at Wild Nephin.
Mary Chambers’ life unfolded during the mid-1800s, a period shadowed by the Great Hunger, which saw widespread famine and suffering. Following the death of her husband and facing imminent eviction with four children and one on the way, the resilience and ingenuity of Mary and her community were put to the test. In a remarkable act of solidarity, the night before her intended eviction, her neighbours transported the roof of her cottage to an abandoned structure in Shramore. By law, if a cottage was erected and had smoke rising from its chimney by sunset on the same day, the occupants could claim the right to stay. This ingenious use of the law not only preserved Mary’s family’s future but also illustrated the deep communal bonds that characterize Irish society.
But to really understand Mary’s story, I think it’s more powerful for you to read Michael’s words:
When we think back of our troubled past here in Ireland and our fight for freedom and independence we always remember the good men as our heroes that took our country back and somehow we’ve overlooked the role of our women. If it wasn’t for women like Mary during those troubled times back in the 1800s and early 1900s as it was them that kept the children alive that raised the families, it was because of them that our culture has lived from generation to generation, the stories lived through. And they played a huge role in gaining independence for this country and they deserve to be remembered as the true heroes of our forgotten past and history because without them many of us wouldn’t be here today. Against the odds, it was those women who raised the families and kept us alive in very difficult times. So when we think of the heroes of Ireland, it’s not always the gunman that is the true hero of our history, it’s the woman who raised the children, who kept the next generation alive so that we could move forward into a brighter time where we could have equality for all our people and be able to enjoy the quality of life freedom brings. It’s because of Mary and the women of her generation and generations after, that give their hope to their children, is what has made Ireland what it is today.
Standing in that bothy, as Michael’s narrative filled the air, I was unexpectedly moved to tears. It was a solid reminder that understanding where you come from shapes who you are—and in Ireland, every place, every story is a testament to the resilience and character of its people.
The Present Path
Jean Hegarty: A Voice for Truth and Reconciliation
The Museum of Free Derry offers a powerful immersion into the heart of Northern Ireland’s civil rights struggle. As I walked through, the air was filled with recordings of protesters and news clips from that era, banners from Bloody Sunday hung above, and displays like the shockingly large rubber bullets fired at protesters vividly brought history to life. Among the images of what was intended to be a peaceful march, I could envision myself and my daughters, knowing we too have stood in protest for what we believe in.
During this profound visit, we were guided by Jean Hegarty, who brought an intensely personal perspective to the narrative. Jean, originally from Derry, was living in Canada when she heard about the tragic events of Bloody Sunday on the news. She recalled thinking, ‘Well, I don’t know anyone in the IRA, so my family is safe.’ However, she was awakened the next day by a phone call—her 17 year old brother, Kevin, was among those killed. Hearing this, as I stood amidst the echoes of that day, brought the historical pain into sharp, personal focus. When Jean mentioned her brother’s fate, the tears that had been resting on the edge of my eyes for most of the visit suddenly spilled over, and I reached out to hug her, driven by a surge of empathy as if the tragedy had just occurred.
Clearly, Jean’s role at the museum goes beyond recounting facts; she is a vital link to the past, working tirelessly to ensure the true story of that day is understood. She hopes that by sharing these truths, visitors from all over the world can grasp the full impact of the Troubles and the importance of remembering those who suffered and fought.
Being only three years old when Bloody Sunday occurred, my knowledge of that day was previously limited to the lyrics of a U2 song from my teen years. But standing there, the flood of information opened a portal to the past, urging me to learn more, to understand more deeply. In today’s global climate, where civil rights are still fiercely contested, learning from the past is essential.
Jean Hegarty’s story, interwoven with her continued advocacy and education efforts, ensures that the memory of her brother Kevin, and others lost that day, continues to resonate. It’s a stark reminder of the ongoing need for truth and reconciliation in our understanding of history.
Charlene McCrossan: The Spirit of Modern Derry
In the vibrant city of Derry, I had the pleasure of experiencing a tour that not only highlighted its rich history but also showcased the hope and pride of its people. Charlene McCrossan, who runs the tour company her father started, embodies the true spirit of a modern Derry girl. For fans of the show Derry Girls, a tour with Charlene is not to be missed—she brings the city to life with stories that resonate with the humour and resilience characteristic of the place.
Charlene’s leadership in her family’s business is a testament to the city’s evolution over the years. Stepping into her father’s shoes, she has continued to develop and expand the tour offerings, ensuring that visitors not only learn about Derry’s past but also feel the pulse of its present. Under her guidance, the tours provide a deep dive into the city’s historical significance and its ongoing transformation, 26 years after the Good Friday Agreement. This agreement marked a new era for Northern Ireland, promising peace and an end to decades of conflict.
Charlene represents a new generation of Derry locals, who are not only aware of their city’s turbulent history but are also eager to share how it has shaped their identity and aspirations. With Charlene, the tour becomes more than a journey through historic sites; it’s an engaging encounter with Derry’s soul, filled with personal insights and anecdotes that you won’t find in guidebooks.
For anyone wanting to understand the heart of Derry, to laugh and perhaps reflect on its complex history, spending time with Charlene offers a unique and enriching experience. Experiencing Derry through her eyes, you realize that the city’s narrative is still being written, and it’s people like her who are leading the way. It’s a story of resilience, revival, and, most importantly, hope—a narrative that Charlene McCrossan narrates with enthusiasm and authenticity.
Wild Women of the Wild Atlantic Way Found!
As it turns out my idea of seeking wild women along the Wild Atlantic Way was a success and a good reminder for me to chase those stories. To truly understand a place, we must listen to its people, especially those whose voices have historically been overshadowed. The stories of these women do not merely complement the history of Ireland; they are essential to understanding the soul of this beautiful island. There are thousands more stories across Ireland, both written and unwritten, waiting to be explored. Each one offers a unique perspective that can deepen our appreciation of this land. So, whether you’re walking through the bustling streets of its cities or along the quiet paths of the Wild Atlantic Way, take a moment to listen—the spirit of Ireland comes alive through the stories of its people, inviting you to discover more for yourself.
